Discover Saint-Émilion, right bank Bordeaux
One of the most famous wines in the world at the heart of France’s Bordeaux wine region - a must-visit destination!
The heart of beautiful, historic Saint-Émilion - Source: Winekeller
Saint-Émilion is one of the most famous and most visited Bordeaux wine villages and is widely recognised as a jewel in Bordeaux’s crown. With a charming medieval village in the heart of one of the best French wine regions, a wine history dating back to Roman times and some of the best French wineries, this is one of the absolute top wine tourism destinations in the world!
Where is Saint-Émilion?
Saint-Émilion is in the Libournais Bordeaux wine region, on the famous ‘Right Bank’ of Bordeaux, i.e. on the east bank of the River Garonne. The medieval village of Saint-Émilion lies in the centre of the Saint-Émilion appellation (AOC), known the world over for its superb rich, red wines.
Saint-Émilion was registered by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1999, covering the mediaeval village of Saint-Émilion, seven other villages around it and their vineyards, for their cultural landscape.
The Libournais on the right bank, Bordaux - source: Vins de Bordeaux
Saint-Émilion wines
Saint-Émilion wines rank amongst the world's longest-lived and most highly regarded red wines.
The world-famous Saint-Émilion red wines are made from vines grown in a variety of terroirs around the historic village of Saint-Émilion. There are four principal soil types - limestone, clay-limestone, gravel and sand and these are present to a varying degree across three distinct districts of Saint-Émilion:
On the western edge of the region, on the border of Pomerol, the sandy soils produce some of the finest Saint-Émilion wines, from top Saint-Émilion châteaux including Château Figeac and Château Cheval Blanc;
The sunny hillsides of the escarpment around Saint-Émilion form the ‘Côtes Saint-Émilion’ and sandy soils here cover the limestone bedrock that is so visible in the village itself. A large number of châteaux are located here;
The third district is represented by land in between the Côtes and the more gravel soils to the west. Here the soil is a mixture of clay, limestone and sand.
The famous Saint-Émilion limestone - Source: Winekeller
What kind of wine is Saint-Émilion?
The Saint-Émilion appellations include Saint-Émilion - where the two grape varieties are Merlot and Cabernet Franc and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru which also permits Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also a handful of small parishes to the north and north-east of Saint-Émilion which are permitted to use the Saint-Émilion name - including Lussac- Saint-Émilion, Puisseguin Saint-Émilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion and Montagne Saint-Émilion.
Saint-Émilion wines are rich, red wines that are preferred by many to the drier style of wines from the Bordeaux Left Bank (due to the greater proportion of Merlot). They typically contain more alcohol than wines from the Médoc but can live just as long.
Saint-Émilion vineyards - Source: Winekeller
Saint-Émilion châteaux and classification
Today there are some 8-900 Saint-Émilion châteaux with an average of 7.5k hectares of vineyards.
The Saint-Émilion classification was introduced in 1954 and it was last updated in 2022 (it is updated every 10 years), distinguishing 3 levels of quality.
Châteaux can apply for a Grand Cru Classé or a Premier Grand Cru Classé A/B - based on a points system. Today there are 71 Grands Crus Classé châteaux, 12 Premiers Grands Crus classé châteaux and just 2 Premiers Grands Crus classé (A) châteaux - Château Figeac and Château Pavie.
Some châteaux are now opting out of the classification system, perceiving it to be outdated, however it is still seen to benefit the smaller lesser known estates.
Visiting Saint-Émilion
Whether you’re a wine connoisseur or wine enthusiast, a visit to Saint-Émilion is an opportunity to immerse yourself in an unforgettable wine experience and taste some memorable wines.
You can of course explore by car as the wine region is very accessible, but a guided tour will provide you with much more insight and a much more immersive experience - and of course it means nobody has to drive!
The best time to visit Saint-Émilion
The best time to visit is during spring and early autumn when the weather is pleasant and mild. September and early October is harvest season, which of course makes visiting the vineyards most interesting.
A great time to visit is also early May for ‘Saint-Émilion Open House’ weekend when all of the Saint-Émilion châteaux are open for you to visit.
See here for all the practical information you need about visiting Saint-Émilion - note the tourist office is right in the centre of Saint-Émilion village and is well worth a visit!
How far is Saint-Émilion from Bordeaux?
Saint-Émilion is about a 45 minute drive from Bordeaux city centre and you can also get there by train from Bordeaux’s Gare St Jean station and by bus from outside the Bordeaux tourism office.
Enjoy a Saint-Émilion tour from Bordeaux
We can highly recommend taking a private, fully customised day tour from Bordeaux to visit Saint-Émilion (and neighbouring Pomerol), where you will enjoy discovering these famous right bank Bordeaux wines, led by an experienced and professional guide. See B for Bordeaux tours to Saint-Émilion.
We also recommend France’s number one platform for wine experiences, Rue des Vignerons, which offers a large selection of tours and wine-tastings at top-rated Saint-Émilion châteaux!
Exploring the medieval village of Saint-Émilion
The historic Saint-Émilion village - Source: Winekeller
Picturesque Saint-Émilion is steeped in history and the tradition and art of winemaking has passed through generations here.
Today the village lies at the heart of the Saint-Émilion UNESCO World Heritage Site and a region with an immensely rich cultural heritage and wine history. It is also known for its superb gastronomy.
Exploring the town by foot you will encounter charming wine boutiques, centuries old architecture, beautiful landmarks, cobbled streets, spectacular views and inviting cafés and restaurants.
There is an incredible ambience in Saint-Émilion and you can’t help but be beguiled by this very special, vibrant village which holds such an important place in the world of wine.
What to do in Saint-Émilion
Experience Saint-Émilion’s rich past by visiting its most significant landmarks and monuments - in particular:
The monolithic church of Saint-Emilion (and bell tower) in the centre of the village, dating from the 11th and 12th centuries - see the underground chambers with cryptic carvings and sacred chapels - all dug out of the limestone plateau on which the village was formed. (Note - the views from the square where the church is located are incredible - make sure you don’t miss this photo opportunity and view over the village and surrounding vineyards);
The Collegiate church with its impressive Gothic cloister and frescoes;
The Cordelier’s Cloisters - a former convent and historic cloisters dating back to the 14th century. Visit to view the incredible ruins and also enjoy a tour, which includes a visit to the cellars where you can witness the process of making sparkling ‘crémant de Bordeaux’ wines - and then enjoy a tasting in the renovated tasting room. (Note - this is a beautiful, tranquil location to relax,to enjoy a drink and a bite to eat);
The Brunet Gate - part of the fortified walls and ramparts enclosing the village and remarkably preserved;
The Great Wall - the remains of an original Dominican convent dating from the 13th century and a formidable monument lying on the outskirts of the village.
Restaurants in Saint Emilion
With such an excellent reputation for its gastronomy, there is no shortage of great places to dine in Saint-Émilion and to enjoy the local food, wines and hospitality.
We enjoyed a wonderful dinner at L’Envers du Décor in the heart of the village, close to the monolithic church of Saint-Émilion, known for its vibrant atmosphere, traditional food and wine selection. Pre-book or be prepared to queue!
Another local institution is the more formal restaurant La Table de Pavie, a place to soak up the ambience in the heart of the village, Amelia Canta, with its terrace and three panoramic rooms and Logis de la Cadène, the oldest restaurant in Saint-Émilion, with a Michelin star (also has accommodation).
We can also recommend L’Atelier de Candale - a fabulous restaurant in the vineyards at Château de Candale (see later) in Saint Laurent de Combes just outside of the village.
Where to stay in Saint Emilion
There is a wide range of accommodation options in and around the village of Saint-Émilion. For a very special vineyard experience like no other, take a look at Château Troplong Mondot, a Premier Grand Cru Classé estate 20 minutes walk outside the village, which also has a Michelin star (see later).
We stayed at the ‘Clos des Jacobins’ - luxurious guest accommodation offered by Magali and Thibaut Decoster, just outside of Saint-Émilion in the heart of their Clos des Jacobins vineyard (Grand Cru Classé estate). We were most impressed by the standard and quality of the accommodation, the warm welcome and the excellent breakfast! The most memorable aspect though is the peaceful setting in the heart of these famous and beautiful Saint-Émilion vineyards.
Exploring the famous Saint Emilion châteaux
Despite it being difficult to leave behind the beautiful mediaeval, historic centre of Saint-Émilion, even if just for a few hours, it’s imperative to explore some of the world-famous Saint-Émilion Bordeaux châteaux. After all Saint-Émilion wine is probably what brought you to this incredible Bordeaux wine region.
Visiting a Saint-Émilion château offers an immersion in not just some of the region’s world-famous wines, but in history, tradition, art and architecture too and there is something for everyone, not just wine lovers! There are over 100 Saint-Émilion châteaux which are open to the public, offering a variety of different experiences - see here for some ideas and inspiration!
We visited two different Saint-Émilion chateaux during our stay:
Château de Candale - Magali & Thibaut Decoster
Château de Candale cellars - Source: Winekeller
Château de Candale is one of four different châteaux which are all part of the group Magali & Thibaut Decoster.
In addition to the châteaux and wine production the group places a strong focus on wine tourism, combining ‘vineyards with the art of living’, offering in addition to a range of wine tours and tastings, guest accommodation (see earlier) and a gourmet restaurant.
The Clos des Jacobins estate is made up of 8.5 hectares of top vineyards just outside the village of Saint Emilion, producing Grand Cru Classé wines. This is also the location of the excellent guest accommodation (see earlier) comprising three chambre d’hôte rooms and a gîte.
The second Grand Cru Classé site is Château la Commanderie, a jewel of the Magali & Thibaut Decoster Vineyards.
The vineyards at Château de Candale stretch out over the south-facing clay-limestone hillside and produce some top-rated Saint-Émilion Grand Cru wines. A wide selection of different wine tours are held here, where you can taste the range of wines from across the different properties. This is also the site of the L’Atelier de Candale gourmet restaurant.
The final vineyard/estate in the group is the Château Roc de Candale - producing Saint-Émilion Grand Cru wines from just over 7 hectares of vineyards.
We enjoyed an excellent tour of the vineyards and the cellars at Château de Candale, followed by a tasting of 3 unique wines - 2 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru wines, the 2017 Roc de Candale and the 2017 Château de Candale, followed by a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, the 2015 Clos des Jacobins wine.
All of the wines were excellent! We really appreciated the opportunity to taste 3 very different wines - from different vineyards and terroirs - so we can understand why tours here are so popular!
See here to book your Château de Candale tour/tasting with Rue des Vignerons!
Château Troplong Mondot
Views from the terrace across the vineyards at Château Troplong Mondot - Source: Winekeller
On a hilltop - the highest in the appellation - close to the village of Saint-Émilion, you can find the stunning Château Troplong Mondot - an exceptional Premier Grand Cru Classé vineyard site - the largest in Saint-Émilion, spanning some 43 hectares.
The vineyards are surrounded by hedges, walls and forest to protect and promote biodiversity - with a major focus being on sustainability and the environment. In fact more than 80% of the vineyards are ploughed by horses today to help protect the special soils.
The vineyard dates back to 1700 and the château to 1745. The estate is owned by SCOR - a reinsurance company - purchasing it in 2017 from the prior owner, Christine Valette, whose passion and vision for the estate laid the groundwork for what you experience here today. Sadly Christine became ill and with no children to pass the estate to she sold to SCOR, a company who in her mind, could follow through on her vision and realise the full potential of the estate.
Château Troplong Mondot has embraced the broadest concept of wine tourism and hospitality, where the focus is on the warmth of the welcome and letting the spirit of this special place shine through.
From the ‘Keys of Troplong Mondot’ guest accommodation to the wide variety of ‘discovery’ tours and experiences, to the spectacular Michelin star restaurant ‘Les Belles Perdrix’, under the leadership of Chef David Charrier, a visit to Château Troplong Mondot offers an incredible and unmatched experience of the Saint-Émilion Bordeaux region.
For more information about visiting beautiful Saint-Émilion, click here.
Conclusion and personal highlights
Spending time in Saint-Émilion was very special for us - exploring the beautiful village as well as the surrounding countryside and famous Saint-Émilion châteaux. Tasting the world-famous wines wasn’t too bad either!!! Seriously, if you love your wine and want to experience some wine history and one of the most celebrated and iconic wine regions in the world, this has to be in your top 5!
